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Lifting your truck _ Installing a lift kit

So why a body lift and what other lift options are there? In general there are three basic techniques available to lift a vehicle:

  1. Install larger diameter wheels and/or tires
  2. Modify the suspension ride height
  3. Raise the body off the frame (assuming its not a unitized body construction)

Usually, installing larger tires (#1) require that either #2 or #3 be done to provide adequate clearance for the tires within the wheel wells. Suspension lifts (#2) can be simple or complex, depending on what is modified and how it is done. Similarly, body lifts (#3) can be simple or complex, but are generally simpler and less complex and expensive than suspension modifications. Since the body lift only raises the body, it has less adverse impact on the vehicles center of gravity than other lift techniques, since the frame, engine and drive train remain at the original location. By raising the body higher, you may gain needed room for larger tires or added ground clearance to protect the body from trail damage. However, a body lift will do nothing to change the operation of your suspension by itself. However, by combining a mild body lift, with a mild suspension lift may allow fitting a larger tire and result in a combined system that functions better than the individual components.

"Lift as much as needed, but as little as possible"

See the following section for a list of frequently asked questions...

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Here are some frequently asked questions:

  1. What constitutes a "mild" body lift?
  2. So, 1" isn't all that much, is it even worth doing?
  3. What about taller body lifts?
  4. Why might I need a body lift at all?
  5. I've got an XYZ vehicle, do you make a lift kit for it?
  6. What if I have a flatbed on my pickup and only need to lift the cab, do I have to buy a "full kit"?
  7. What is included in the body lift kit?
  8. How much does it cost?
  9. How long will it take to get the kit?
    1. What if something is wrong with my order?
    2. Can I return lift kit components I don't use?
  10. How large a tire can I fit with X" of lift?
  11. What if I already have a body lift and want to remove it, reduce it's height or adapt it to another vehicle?
  12. I'm looking for an "RB" or "Roger Brown" body lift kit, where do I find that?

    Have a question not listed above, send an e-mail and we'll try to answer it.

1. What constitutes a "mild" body lift?

  • In my definition, this is any body lift you can install before encountering major modifications.
  • With the stock Toyota design, there are two likely "mild" lift points, one at about 1/2" and another at 1".
  • At 1/2", you can re-use the stock fasteners, taking advantage of the excess bolt length, to get a little bit of lift.
    • Useful for installing rock sliders - exposes a bit more frame for stronger attachment.
  • At 1", you'll need to replace the stock fasteners and possibly make minor modifications to a few other parts.
  • Beyond 1", you'll start to have issues with more components like shift and steering linkages, gas tank filler hoses and other frame-body inter-connections.
  • An automatic transmission has more complex linkages than a manual transmission.
    • Most Toyota automatic transmission linkages can accommodate a 1" body lift without adjustment and there is a bolt-on bracket for 2" and 3" body lifts on 1st and 2nd gen 4Runners and pickups. The 3rd gen 4Runner and Tacoma A/T linkage is fully adjustable, so no bracket is needed up to a 2" lift.
  • For the newer model Toyota vehicles with rack and pinion steering (like '96 and newer 4Runners, Tacomas, etc.) anything over a 1/2" body lift will likely require modification of the steering shaft.

2. So, 1" isn't all that much, is it even worth doing?

  • One way to look at that, is that using a 2" taller tire (say going from 31" to 33") will raise your vehicle 1", granted all points of the vehicle will go up 1", including the body, but an inch is an inch.
  • From a simple-minded perspective, using a 2" taller tire, will require 1" additional wheel well clearance (may need more) and a 1" body lift can provide that 1".
  • Toyota trucks have fairly long front and rear overhangs, anything you can do to raise the ends of the vehicle will increase your approach and departure angles.
  • If you are planning to install body protection like nerf bars and bumpers, then raising the body up and tucking the protection in underneath will give you the protection and preserve the clearance angles.
    • Certain aftermarket bumpers are not possible to raise without major modifications. For example, the ARB pickup bumper is mounted in such a way as to make lifting it difficult. However, it is possible to leave it attached in the stock location.
  • On vehicles with independent front suspensions, lift options are limited, so every little bit can help.
  • For leaf springs, more arch in the spring, often implies a stiffer spring rate as well. For example if 4" of lift is needed for a given tire size, then a 3" spring and 1" body lift may give a better result than a stiffer 4" spring by itself. By spreading the lift over different components, the impact on any one component is lessened. For example a 4" spring lift may require drive shaft modifications, while a 3" lift may not. Its all a matter of degree and cost vs. benefit.
  • A 1" body lift can make accessing parts on the engine like filters and the starter *so* much easier, this is an often overlooked side benefit of a body lift. Also, certain engine modifications like V6 headers, engine or transmission swaps require some body lift to be installed at all. Removing and installing the transmission can also be easier since you have access to to the upper mounting bolts.
  • Finally, you may find in certain states and/or countries, only a certain amount of lift is allowed on a given vehicle in order to pass inspection. While you might like to lift the rig 3", it'll only be legal at a 1" lift. Be sure to check your local vehicle regulations prior to installing any lift.

3. What about taller body lifts?

  • While a 1" body lift is considered mild, there are many folks running 2" and 3" body lifts. 3" is pretty much the maximum lift you should consider on the stock mounts. Above this and you should consider raising the mounting bracket on the frame to reduce the leverage caused by the taller blocks.
  • At 2" on most Toyotas, you will find that in addition to the items that a 1" lift affects, you will need to extend the hydraulic line to the clutch slave cylinder.
    • A stock front brake line works well for this.
  • At 1" the radiator shroud was probably OK as-is, but at 2", you should drop the radiator to re-center it on the fan.
  • Same story on the shift levers, while modifications are optional at 1", they will probably need to be done at 2" and for sure at 3"
  • You'll also need to let the steering shaft lengthen a bit and chances are the upper engine ground strap may need to be lengthened.
  • With a 1st gen. 4Runner, a 2" lift allows you to raise the gas tank 2" using the existing pickup mounting holes on the cross member.
  • At 3", in addition to the above items need attention as well as dealing with fuel lines at the gas tank. One option at the 3" stage is to also lift the entire drive train by a similar amount.
    • For example, the engine and transmission could be raised for additional break-over angle, the fuel tank could be raised, etc. This will restore many of the interference areas to their original position.
    • This is what I chose to do on my 4Runner and you can find out more on that project here.
  • Above 3" and you are asking for trouble and 4Crawler Offroad won't provide any components for that application. Best bet above 3" is to fabricate new body mount brackets raised up the desired amount and attach the body to the raised brackets without any lift blocks.

4. Why might I need a body lift at all?

  • Lets assume you have installed a suspension lift in order to run larger tires. On level ground, you'll have lots of clearance between the tire and body. But, if your suspension has a decent amount of flex to it, when you bottom out the springs on the bump stops, what happens to the larger tire? Well, its now trying to fit into the same wheel well opening that was designed for the stock size tire and you may experience interference. So, by lifting the body up off the frame, you can gain clearance for larger tires to fit in off-road conditions. Other options are to trim the sheet metal around the wheel wells or run springs that are so stiff that they won't compress to the frame. Many people prefer a soft flexible spring with just enough lift to fit the tires, then a body lift to gain the clearance needed for off-road use.
  • Body lifts are also commonly used with engine swaps and modifications like installing exhaust headers, etc. Lifting the body off the frame a bit gives a bit more room for larger engines, exhaust tubing or other components to fit. You may also find the increased clearance helps in routine maintenance tasks like working on starters, fuel filters, transmissions, etc.

5. I've got an XYZ vehicle, do you make a lift kit for it?

  • If it is not listed here, then 4Crawler Offroad doesn't have a design available for that application. But, everything listed on this page, outside the early Toyota 4Runner kits, has been designed with the help of people just like you that asked this very question.
  • If you are willing to do the research needed to help me design and build the kit, chances are the answer will be YES!
    • First, verify that the vehicle uses a body-on-frame construction.
      • Many modern vehicles use a uni-body or uni-frame construction where the body and frame end up being one piece.
      • If there are no body mounts, bushings or bolts visible underneath, then chances are the body can't be raised off the frame with a body lift.
    • Then, you need to know how many body mounts the vehicle has, a rough idea of what size they are (i.e. 2" dia, 2.5" dia., etc.) what size the mounting hardware is (diameter and working length for each mount - sometimes there is unused thread on bolts).
    • If items need relocating like bumpers, radiators, etc., I'll need to know details on how they are mounted to the frame. You'll need to supply information on the size of the mounting bolts and the spacing of the holes (e.g. 12mm bolts, 60mm on center - then a bracket can be designed based upon this data).
    • Getting this data won't be all that hard, get under your rig and count the body mount locations. Find where all the bolts are, you should be able to loosen and remove one at a time, pull it out, measure it and put it back.
      • Get dimensions, take pictures, and send them to me.
      • Bolt lengths are measured from the bottom of the head to the end of the shaft, DO NOT include the height of the head in the length. Also, some vehicles have, for example a 5" long bolt, but with 1" of thread exposed when installed, so, this should be noted, e.g. 'Bolt 5" long w/ 1" exposed thread'.
      • Bolt diameters are measured at the shaft, its not the size of wrench that fits on the head.
      • If a bolt goes into a captive nut inside the body, then the thread pitch (ii SAE, this will be Threads Per Inch, and if metric it'll be in mm/thread) will need to be measured.
      • Don't assume all bolts are the same diameter or length. They are usually the same side to side, but can be vastly different sizes in different locations. And don't just measure down from the underside of the floor or guess, you really need to pull the bolt out, measure the length and best if you can send a photo of all the bolts side by side with a ruler for scale. If should be no problem to remove a body mount bolt, no vehicle support is needed, gravity will keep the body in place, just make sure you put them back before driving it!
    • So you provide 4Crawler Offroad with the specifications, you will get a "custom" kit with no extra charge for the custom design work.
      • 4Crawler Offroad will hope to make up the design cost in additional sales of kits for that application.
    • This was recently done for the Kia Sportage body lift kit. Within 2 weeks of the initial contact, a kit had been designed, manufactured, and installed on the owners truck. A similar turnaround was seen fior the 3rd and 4th generation Toyota 4Runners.
    • A 3" body lift is about the tallest that is safe and reasonable.
      • If planning a body lift over 3", please consider cutting the brackets off the frame and raise them up the desired amount and weld them on with added bracing.
      • The life you save may be your own!
  • Note:
    • XYZ is not any specific vehicle, replace XYZ with Dodge, Jeep, Ford, or whatever vehicle you have and are interested in having a body lift kit designed for.
    • If you are unwilling or unable to provide the above information, see if you can locate a person with the same vehicle within 50 miles or so of San Jose, CA. and see if they can pay me a visit to do the measurements. Otherwise, wait and see if someone else can provide the information, if its not listed below, its not available.
    • Cost will depend on the quantity and size of the blocks and hardware desired. 2" OD blocks are $4.00/ea. for 1" tall and add $1.00/in. over 1" tall. 2.5" OD blocks run $5.00/ea. for 1" tall and add $1.50/in. over 1" tall. Longer bolts can run from $2.00/ea. to $5.00/ea. depending on size and length.
    • There is typically no extra charge for the custom body lift kit, you provide the specs, 4Crawler Offroad will design and manufacture the kit. You get the lift kit you want, and 4Crawler Offroad has a new application to add to it's product line.

6. What if I have a flatbed on my pickup and only need to lift the cab, do I have to buy a "full kit"?

  • No problem, every kit is built to order. If you only need 6 blocks for the cab, that's what you order. If you've bobbed the bed on your pickup and only have 6 bed mounts instead of 8, that's what you order. If you only want 3/4" or 1.5" instead of 1" or 2", that's what you order. For example, an Ultimate lift kit for a pickup cab (only - bed replaced w/ a frame-mounted flatbed) would include 2-2" and 4-2.5" dia. blocks and 1/2 of a pickup hardware kit, since the flat bed is attached to the frame directly and probably won't be lifted. Contact me for special pricing on these combinations.

7. What is included in the body lift kit?

  • What is included in your kit depends on what you need. See above question for the case of a pickup cab only, no need to purchase the bed hardware. Each "kit" is built to order to meet your needs. See my pricing and options page for some common combinations. If the combination you need is not listed, don't worry, it is likely available.
  • Basically, you need:
    • Blocks to raise the body off the frame
    • Longer bolts and hardware to fasten the body back to the frame
    • Assorted brackets, spacers, etc. to relocate items that cross the frame<->body interface
  • Need some help designing your kit? I'm available by e-mail to discuss your particular needs.

8. How much does it cost?

  • As listed above, please consult the pricing and options page for some common combinations. There are also individual components prices listed elsewhere in this page. CA Residents, please add applicable state sales tax.

9. How long will it take to get the kit?

  • 4Crawler Offroad tries to stock most of the common parts for the various lift kits (nuts, bolts, etc.) Other parts are fabricated as needed to fill orders. Typically this can take 2-3 days, depending on backlog, for simple orders. For complex kits, allow 1 week or so to fabricate the parts. Parts are shipped via UPS or US Mail, depending on size and destination. Delivery time depends on shipping distance and method. Parts may also be picked up in the SF Bay Area of California if you prefer. An acknowledgement will be sent by e-mail when your order is received. Likewise, a package tracking number will be e-mailed to you, if applicable, when the parts ship.
  • What if something is wrong with my kit when I receive it?
    • If the package was damaged in shipment and some parts fell out or if you think you received incorrect parts or are missing parts, please be prepared to provide photographic documentation of the contents of the package. Contact 4Crawler Offroad via e-mail and state the nature of the problem and attach any images you have. If parts are missing or damaged, 4Crawler Offroad will attempt to send out replacements in a timely manner and also file a claim with the shipper on insured shipments. You must of course request insured shipping if you wish to have that coverage. If parts of of an incorrect size or application, please let us know and we'll try to work out the issue. The only way that 4Crawler Offroad will know about these sorts of issues is to get feedback.
  • Can I return lift kit components I don't use?
    • Yes, any lift component can be returned (in unused condition) for credit (less a 15% restocking fee) if not needed for the lift.

 

 

10. How large a tire can I fit with X" of lift?

  • There is no way to provide an exact answer to this question, at least in general. There are so many variables, the actual diameter and width of the tire, the profile of the tread, the size and offset of the wheel, the suspension mods on the vehicle, your willingness to make minor of major mods to the body (fender trimming) all come into play.
  • The best bet is to locate a lift vs. tire size chart for your vehicle and see if that helps. For example, if you have a Toyota Tacoma, then the Tacoma Territory Tire and Lift FAQ section should have your answer.
  • If you have a vehicle that is similar to another, for example the 3rd gen 4Runner and the Tacoma are very close in design, so the above lift vs. tire size chart should be pretty close. Other options are to find a vehicle specific forum and ask other owners what they are running, lift-wise for a given tire size.
  • Short of a vehicle specific forum, you can try measuring. A body lift will raise the body up and most tire fitment issues are with the front wheels, because of the steering. See if you can find the worst case suspension/steering combination and then carefully measure clearance around the current tire and allow for the larger tire. For example, assume you want to go from a 31x10.50 to a 33x12.50 tire on the same rim. The new tire will therefore be 1" wider on the inside of the wheel, 1" wider on the outside and will extend 1" farther out from the wheel. So, if you had a 1" square block and could run that around the face of the tread and sidewalls all they way around the wheel well without hitting anything, chances are that tire would fit. If it does hit something like the fender, would raising it, say 1", make any difference? If it hits some part of the steering or suspension, then a body lift won't help.
  • For the IFS Toyota pickups and 4Runners ('86-'95) the following tire/lift combinations apply:
  • With all lifts, whether body or suspension: "Lift as much as needed, but as little as possible"
    • What this means is that for best results add as much lift as needed to meet your needs but no more. If 1" of lift is enough for your application, going to 2" or 3" is just extra cost, more installation issues you may encounter, etc.

11. What if I already have a body lift and want to remove it, reduce it's height or adapt it to another vehicle?

  • 4Crawler Offroad is happy to work with you to do this. We can offer kits to replace the body mount hardware to restore the vehicle to stock height. We can also supply lower height lift blocks in almost any combination and can also supply components needed to adapt a lift kit for one vehicle to another. Just drop us a line and we'll be happy to help you with your project.

12. I'm looking for an "RB" or "Roger Brown" body lift kit, where do I find that?

  • 4Crawler Offroad is the name of the company that was created and is owned by Roger Brown. So some people mistakingly call the kits "RB" or "Roger Brown" body lift kits. 4Crawler Offroad would like to encourage everyone to use the official company name when referring to these products to help avoid confusion and for legal reasons as well. It would be the same as walking into your local computer store and asking for a copy of "Bill Gates Word" or "Larry Ellison Database" software. Hopefully you would get what you were looking for, but you may not. So, to answer the Frequently Asked Question "Where can I find an RB body lift kit?" The answer is there is no such a thing.
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Body Mount Tech:

Body mounts are what connect your trucks frame to the cab and/or bed. For strength, pickup beds are typically bolted directly to the frame, while the cab is mounted with compliant bushings (usually rubber or polyurethane) to isolate the cab from road noise and vibration. Starting at the front, there are two mounts behind the bumper, two more are located at the front foot well, two more behind the front seats. Then, in the 4Runner, there are two more in the rear passenger seat well, and two more at the rear of the cargo area. The pickup has 8 mounts on the bed (4 on each side), two near the front of the bed and two near the rear. You should try to locate each mounting point, and be sure you can gain access to both the top and bottom of each mounting bolt before undertaking a body lift.

The body/bed are connected to the frame by the mounts, as described above, to brackets (or horns) attached to the frame. In a body lift, spacers are installed between the body and the mounting brackets or bushings to lift the body above the frame.

From the factory, you'll find rubber body mount bushings. Over time, the rubber cracks and weakens with age. This can lead to what is called "shudder", which is a sort of side-to-side shaking felt when hitting bumps on the road. I tried everything to correct this problem on both my Toyota Landcruiser ('74 FJ-55) and later on my '85 4Runner, but nothing seemed to help until I installed polyurethane body mount bushings. It seems counter intuitive, that putting on a stiffer, less compressible bushing material would actually reduce this vibration, but that's what seems to happen. I think the vibration is actually caused by the relative motion allowed by the softer rubber. In technical terms, the resonant frequency is proportional to the stiffness of the compliant member. The rubber is soft and very compliant, leading transmission of the low frequency shudder, that is within the frequency range of bumps transmitted up from the road. The stiffer polyurethane, shifts the resonant frequency up to a higher value, which is effectively absorbed by the suspension of the vehicle.

All this leads to the point that if you are going to the trouble of installing a body lift, why not also put in some new polyurethane bushings, too. They should run somewhere in the $50-100 range and will make a dramatic improvement in the ride quality of your vehicle. If done with the lift, there is minimal extra work required. If you don't change out the stock bushings, the added leverage of the lift blocks may contribute to a worsened ride quality. A couple of polyurethane bushing manufacturers are:

4Crawler Offroad carries both of these brands for various applications. Typically, body mount bushing kits often include no instructions and even if they do, make no mention of body lift blocks. See my schematic diagram, below, for a simplified cross section of a properly installed body lift and bushing together:

Color Code:
Part supplied in body lift kit
Part supplied in poly bushing kit
Original or existing part 
      XX        New longer bolt

     ----       Factory Washer, either tabbed or round

~===========~   Floor of the cab or bed

    +----+

    |    |      Body Lift Block

    |    |      

    +----+    

   --------     New washer (if supplied w/ poly bushing kit)

   +------+

   |      |     Large poly bushing (Body or cab only)

   +------+ 

  ==========    Bracket off of the frame   

    +----+    

    |    |      Small poly bushing (Body or cab only)

     \--/    

     ----       Factory Washer

      XX        New lock nut



If re-using the stock body mount bushings, the picture is a little different:
Part supplied in body lift kit
Original or existing part 
      XX        New longer bolt

     ----       Factory Washer, either tabbed or round

~===========~   Floor of the cab or bed

    +----+

    |    |      Body Lift Block

    |    |      

    +----+    

   --------     Factory top washer (bonded to body mount bushing, not separate)

   +------+

   |      |     Large factory rubber bushing (Body or cab only)

   +------+ 

  ==========    Bracket off of the frame   

    +----+    

    |    |      Small factory rubber bushing (Body or cab only)

     \--/    

   --------     Small factory washer

      XX        New lock nut

There is a metal bushing that goes inside the poly bushings, it gets sandwiched between the two washers outside the poly bushings and keeps them from getting compressed too much. When you tighten down the bolts, you bottom out this internal bushing. The following image is an excellent rendering of a typical body mount, courtesy of John Evaskovich:

Body mount schematic

One concern with body lift blocks is possible electrolytic corrosion due to dissimilar metals touching. This can be a problem with aluminum blocks and the steel of the body. so a graphite paint coating is used on the aluminum blocks, so they should be fine against the body. If you want, you could cut out some plastic washers from an old plastic bottle and use that to separate the aluminum and steel if desired to prevent possible electrolytic action. The big advantage of the UHMW polyethylene body lift blocks is that they eliminate this possible problem, as polyethylene is inert and self-lubricating, so you won't even have problems with the paint wearing off the steel and causing rust as is common with extruded fiberglass blocks.

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Body Lift Kits:

What exactly is in a body lift kit?

  • Something to put between the frame and the body (lift blocks)
  • Longer-than-stock bolts to hold the body to the frame (mounting hardware)
  • Various brackets to relocate items that connect between the frame and body, such as:
    • Bumpers, front and rear
    • Steering Shaft
    • Radiator
    • Shift Linkage

So, which vehicles do these kits fit? Applications:

Below are some examples about what kind of options are available:

Body Lift block UHMW body lift blocks
Aluminum Lift Blocks UHMW-PE Lift Blocks
4Runner body lift kit Pickup body/bed lift kit
Toyota 4Runner Kit Toyota Pickup Kit
FJ-60 Body Lift and mount kit 1-3/8" Kia Sportage Body Lift
Toyota FJ-60 Landcruiser Kia Sportage
Bed Spacer Steering Shaft Extension
Pickup/Tacoma Bed Spacers Steering Shaft Extension

 

  • Billet body lift blocks
    • 1/4" - 3" lift w/ or w/o hardware:
      • A lathe is used to drill the bolt hole in the center of the block
        • A tight fit is an important design feature as it keeps the body from shifting around on the frame
        • Cast blocks often have oversized, irregularly shaped holes due to the nature of the mfg. process
        • On UHMW blocks taller than 1", you may notice a slight deviation of the hole from the center of the block due to variations in the block diameter in the extrusion process. Since the blocks are slightly oversized in most applications, the slight offset from center has no affect on the function of the block.
      • The one face of the block is than machined square to the axis of the center hole
      • Then the opposite face is machined square and the edges are slightly chamfered to reduce stress concentrations

      Lift block mfg. process

    • Lift block options:
      • 2" dia. billet Aluminum Blocks
        • Cost is $4.00/ea for the 1" tall blocks
          • Add $3.00 per inch over 1" tall, only by special order.
      • UHMW Poly Ethylene blocks
        • Available in both 2"nominal dia. and 2.5"nominal dia blocks.
        • UHMW is a dense plastic, that will eliminate possible corrosion and squeaking problems that could potentially happen with a metallic block.
        • UHMW blocks are available in two sizes:
          • Standard body lift:
            • 2" dia. blocks at $4/ea.
          • Ultimate body lift:
            • 2" for front and bed mounts, 2.5" ($5/ea) for remaining cab mounts:
            • The Ultimate blocks are the same diameter as the larger cab/body mounts so offer the ultimate in strength, both in the block itself as well as spreading the load of the body over the sheet metal contact point.
              • The Ultimate block has approx. 42% larger surface area than the 2" block.
          • Custom height lift blocks are available as well:
            • Any size lift from 1/4" to 3", no-cost consultation on your custom applications
              • Cost is:
                • $1.00 additional for each additional inch of 2" block
                • $1.50 additional for each additional inch of 2.5" block
                • Specify center bolt hole size fro drilling
              • A 1/2 " body lift is an interesting proposition, as many stock mounting bolts have approx. 1/2" of excess length, so this height lift, while not a lot, can be done without the added expense of replacing the stock bolts. If interested in this option, 4Crawler Offroad can make 1/2" blocks, drilled for the 10mm stock bolts
          • The UHMW material comes in a natural white color. It is somewhat similar to teflon in that it is very stain-resistant and most dyes and paints will not stick. 4Crawler Offroad has developed a process by which a colored coating is applied to the visible parts of the block, for those wishing a color other than white. This process is available at an additional cost of $1.00/block and is currently available in flat colors, black is the default.
        • A new product addition is a 1-3/8" body lift block for the Kia Sportage. This block has a number of important features:
          • It is 3.5" in diameter with an integral "cup" to contain the rubber body mount bushing as well as a tapered end that fits into the "cup" on the underside of the body.
          • It has a 19mm center hole to accommodate the factory body mounts bolts and is the tallest lift possible with the existing hardware.
          • Blocks are priced at $10.00/ea. ($11 if painted) and a total of 8 are required.
    • Longer bolts and nylon lock nuts:
      • The stock bolts will not work beyond about 1/2" of lift on most vehicles
      • Two hardware options are available, standard and heavy duty:
        • Standard bolts have approx. the same strength as the factory hardware and will fit the stock body washers without modification
        • Heavy duty bolts are about 25% stronger than stock and will fit into the stock mounting holes and body washers with some slight modifications.
        • The pickup bed bolts (or nuts) include tabs (like stock, where applicable) for ease of installation.
      • Hardware is SAE Grade 5 or better, which combines good tensile as well as shear strength.
        • Hardware is either zinc or cadmium plated for corrosion resistance
      • You may also supply your own mounting hardware
        • If you want to use custom size bolts, blocks can be drilled to your specifications or even supplied un-drilled
      • $25/set (specify: year and make; Pickup, 4Runner, Tacoma, etc.)
    • Radiator drop brackets (if needed):
      • The radiator (and fan shroud) are attached to the body, the engine (and fan) to the frame
        • $15/pr. ($10/pr. when part of a kit), fits standard 20cm Toyota radiator bolt spacing, drilled for 1" and 2" drop
      • You may be able to simply remove the lower radiator shroud extension
        • With a 1" lift, you will have to modify the radiator flange a bit to install the bracket
        • An electric radiator fan eliminates this problem as the fan is attached to the radiator and not the engine
        • Tacoma trucks do not require a bracket and it is possible to simply use existing or new mounting holes
    • Stock front bumper drop bracket and hardware (if needed):
      • $15/pr. ($10/pr.when part of a kit) - will raise stock bumper to original height as bumper will no longer fit with body lift
        • On 4Runners, the rear bumper is attached to the underside of the body
    • A bracket for raising Toyota A/T transfer case lever for 2" or 3" is now available:
      • Bracket costs $45 as-is or $40 when purchased with a body lift kit, included mounting hardware.
    • A steering shaft extension for Toyota rack and pinion (as well as conventional steering box) is now available:
      • Extension bolts on to the stock rag joint and extends the shaft 1" or more, cost is $30 as-is, or $25 when purchased as part of a body lift kit, includes mounting hardware.
    • For certain vehicles, there are places where the bed or body is supported by contact with the frame. While the body lift blocks and longer bolts will properly support the bed or body, for added load capacity, a separate bed spacer can be bolted or welded to the frame to provide a contact point.
      • Bed spacers run $4/ea. for 1", add $1/inch over that height.
    • If you want to "roll your own", click here for a VRML model of my block design
      • A proper body lift block should be uncompressible, there should be minimal play between the bolt and block to prevent it from racking
      • If interested in "rolling your own", I'd be more than happy to supply you with a suitable quantity of material:
        • 2" UHMW rod at $1.50/inch, 2.5" at $2.00/inch and $1.00 per cut on either item

One thing about many of the commercially available body lift kits is that they are an all-in-one package, one size fits all:

  • If you want just the blocks, you have to buy the whole kit and throw away the parts you don't need.
  • If you want shorter blocks, you cut the taller blocks in two and throw away the parts you don't need.
    • Much of the hardware supplied is specific to the amount of lift in the blocks, so it can't be re-used.
    • Bolts only have thread on the lower inch or so of the bolt, so if its shortened more than this, its no longer a bolt, its just a round rod with a hex head on top.

So, 4Crawler Offroad has chosen to supply a body lift in an "ala carte" form, e.g. you want blocks, you order the blocks; you want bolts, you order the bolts, etc. Here is a list of some common combinations of parts that are typically ordered.

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Poly Urethane Body Mount Bushings:

While not required, on 1st generation Toyota trucks ('79-'88 pickups and '84-'89 4Runners), it is a good idea to check the condition of the stock rubber body mount bushings and if cracked or worn out, chang them to polyurethane (PU). PU will withstand the added strain of the taller body lift, and it actually transmits less noise and vibration from the frame to the body than rubber. Onfortunately, due to the recent high oil prices, the cost of polyurethane has skyrocketed, so the cost of the bushing kits has gone up as well. Polyurethane body mount kits are offered in the following configurations (and can be used as-is or with a body lift ):

  • Toyota
    • Pickup:
      • ('79-'88) - $80.00 (6 cab mounts)
      • ('89-'95) - $90.00 (6 cab mounts)
    • 4Runner:
      • ('84-'89) - $95.00 (10 body mounts)
      • ('90-'95) - $150.00 (10 body mounts)
      • ('96-only) - 9th and 10th body mount brackets+bushings $75.00
      • ('96-'02) - $160 (10 body mounts)
    • Landcruiser F/BJ-60/2
      • (all) - $130.00 (12 body mounts, includes custom mix of sizes to fit the body mount cups, as needed, see #3 below)
    • Tacoma:
      • ('95.5-'00) - $90.00 (6 cab mounts)
      • ('01-present) - n/a
  • Mitsubishi
    • Montero/Pajero/(Dodge Raider):
      • LWB: $165.00 (12 body mounts)
      • SWB: $145.00 (10 body mounts) and $125.00 (8 body mounts)
    • D50/Pickup:
      • Cab-only: ($90.00) (6 body mounts)

Note: Bushing kit prices discounted $5.00 -10.00 with body lift kit purchase.

Stock rubber vs. Poly Urethane Bushings Pickup/4Runner body mount bushing kit FJ-60 Body Mount Kit Montero LWB body mounts
1. Stock rubber vs. Polyurethane 2. Pickup('84-88)
4Runner('84-89) Bushings		 3. FJ-60/2 Body Mounts 4. Montero LWB Body Mounts
2nd Gen Pickup/Tacoma mounts 3rd Gen 4Runner body mount kit (shown combined w/ 1" body lift) Your body mounts here...
5. Pickup'89+/Tacoma Mounts 6. '90-95 4Runner Mounts 7. '96-02 4Runner Mounts Your body mounts here...

Pictured above:

  1. A set of stock rubber body mount bushings (black) and replacement poly urethane bushings (red)
    1. Large bushing: 62mm OD x 16mm ID x 21mm H x 24mm frame bracket hole
    2. Small bushing: 45mm OD x 16mm ID x 21mm H x 24mm frame bracket hole
    3. Lower bushing: 42mm OD x 16mm ID x 23mm H
    4. Steel sleeve: 16mm OD x 12.5mm ID x 42mm long
  2. A typical polyurethane body mount kit. To the left is a pickup kit, with a total of 6 cab mount bushings, or with all 10, you have a 1st generation 4Runner kit. Also shown at the top are the new top washers which are drilled to accept either stock or or the larger body lift mounting bolts. The stock body mounts have the washers bonded to the rubber, so they can't be easily re-used.
  3. A typical Landcruiser FJ-6x body mount kit has 12 body mount bushings with custom sized bushings as needed
    1. Generally 2, 4, or 6 - 55mm bushings are needed on the F/BJ-60/2, depending on year.
    2. Pictured above (3) you can see a kit with 4 - smaller and 8 larger bushings (total of 12)
  4. A Mitsubishi Montero also has 12 body mounts
    1. Upper bushing: 60mm OD x 17mm ID x 23mm H x 29mm frame bracket hole
    2. Lower bushing: 51mm OD x 17mm ID x 33mm H
    3. Steel sleeve (not included): 17mm OD x 12.5mm ID (est) x 50mm long (est)
  5. '89-'95 Toyota Pickup and '95.5-'00 Toyota Tacoma 1-piece body mount bushings
  6. 2nd Gen 4Runner ('90-'95) body mount bushing kit, a hybrid kit or 6 1-piece bushings and 4 2-piece bushings.
    1. Note the arrangement of the bushing parts, shown front-rear (left-right) and the thin and thick spacers
    2. Bushings and blocks are labelled front to rear with the capital letters: Front, A-pillar, B-pillar, C-pillar, Rear
  7. 3rdGen 4Runner ('96-'02) body mount bushing kit, a hybrid kit or 2 1-piece bushings and 8 2-piece bushings (picture shows combined 1" body lift and poly bushing kit)
    1. With no body lift, you'll have an assortment of thin spacers to make up height differences between the stock and replacement bushings.
    2. Bushings and blocks are labelled front to rear with the capital letters: Front, A-pillar, B-pillar, C-pillar, Rear

Notes:

  • On the hybrid body mount kits, there will often be two different color bushings, due to different mfgs. If you wish to paint the red bushings black, do so after they are installed.
    • Clean the bushings off with a good solvent, rough up the surface gloss with some sandpaper and then spray with flat black paint once they are installed.
    • You can't paint then prior to installation because the paint will flake off when the bushings are compressed.
  • If you have a vehicle not listed above, that uses 2-piece rubber body mounts, and would like to see about upgrading to poly urethane, contact 4Crawler Offroad and we'll be happy to work with you to develop a solution if possible.
    • You'll need to supply detailed dimensions of the existing bushings, inner and outer diameters, height of upper and lower halves, etc.
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Body Mount Brackets:

Certain vehicles, namely the 1996 Toyota 4Runner, are missing the B-pillar body mount brackets from the factory. For some reason, the brackets weren't attached to the frame, although the mounting plates and holes are present in the floor of the body. Because of the added stress of a body lift, its important to have all the body mount locations available for the most support. Below is a picture of a bolt on body mount bracket kit for the 1996 Toyota 4Runner:

Body Mount Bracket Kit

Pictured at the bolt-on black brackets, self-tapping bolts to fasten them to the frame, red polyurethane body mount bushings and bolts to fasten the body to the mount. Also pictured are a pair of 1" body lift blocks, in which case the bolts supplied are 1" longer to accommodate the lift.

Note: This kit can be used without a body lift for added support on a stock '96 4Runner. Cost for the basic kit is $70.00 plus shipping. Add a pair of 1" body lift blocks for another $10.

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Standard vs. Ultimate Lift Blocks:

Most (if not all) commercial body lift kits I've looked at use a "one size fits all" approach. You get one diameter of lift block (usually 2" OD) and that is to be used in all body mount locations. If you are a bit confused about the difference between the Standard and Ultimate body lift blocks, below are various combinations (of lift blocks - white UHMW or aluminum) installed on actual Toyota body mount bushings (the black rubber things) so you can see the differences:

2-piece mounts, various block options 2-piece mount, Ultimate combo blocks
A. 2-piece body mounts B. Ultimate Lift Blocks
2-piece mounts, 2" AL, 2" UHMW blocks 2-piece mounts, 2" AL blocks
C. Aluminum vs. UHMW D. Aluminum Lift Blocks
  • Photo A is an example of the 2-piece body mounts common in '79-'88 pickups and '84-'89 4Runners (i.e. 1st generation). The smaller mount is found under the radiator support, the larger mount is used for the rest of the cab/body, 4 in a pickup, 8 in a 4Runner.
    • On top, from left to right, are a 2" dia. aluminum block, a 2" UHMW block, and a 2-1/2" UHMW block.
  • Photo B, shows how the the Ultimate blocks match the diameter of the stock body mounts.
  • Photos C and D show the 2" dia. aluminum blocks compare to the 2" dia. of the UHMW blocks
    • The UHMW material is slightly over nominal size
      1-piece mount, various blocks 1-piece mount, 2" AL block
      E. 1-piece body mount
      '89+ pickup/Tacoma
      w/ the various lift blocks      		 F. 2" aluminum block
      1-piece mount, Standard UHMW block 1-piece mount, Ultimate UHMW block
      G. 2" UHMW block H. 2-1/2" UHMW block

      While a few 1/8's of an inch doesn't sound like a big deal, the difference in area is dramatic, the 2" UHMW block has nearly 27% more surface area than an actual 2" block and the 2-1/2" UHMW block has nearly 80% more surface area. Surface area equates directly to pressure on the floor of the cab/body of the vehicle. Many aftermarket body lift kits only supply 2" dia. blocks which are probably sufficient for on-road and mild off-road use, but for extreme off-road service, you need all the surface area you can get, or something like this can happen (image I below):

      Small block punching through the floor 2.5" Lift Block Installed
      I: Problem with too-small lift block J: Larger Diameter Block

      So if larger blocks are better, why stop at 2.5"? A few reasons not to use larger blocks:

      • Certain body mount locations are fairly constrained and a larger block simply won't fit
        • In fact in image J above, observe how a larger block would have trouble resting flat against the cab floor due to the curve of the sheet metal
      • The body mount bushing and reinforced pad on the body are only so large. Having excess block material hanging over the edge provides no added benefit
      • Larger blocks use more material and cost more money, so best to use a block that approximates the size of the body mount

      Bottom Line: The Ultimate blocks simply match the size of the existing body mount bushings, while the standard blocks are all the same (smaller) size.

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      Standard vs. Heavy Duty Mounting Hardware:

      Mounting hardware is offered in both a standard and heavy duty size and also in standard and heavy duty grade (see bottom of this section for more information on the standard size, heavy duty grade hardware).

      Standard Grade, Standard Size hardware:
      is designed to fit all the stock washers, bushings, etc. as-is, without need for modification. It is also of equal strength to the stock hardware (SAE Grade 5 ~ Metric Grade 8.8). These hardware kits cost $25-35 depending on application.
      Standard Grade, Oversize hardware:
      The larger heavy duty hardware, is designed to be the maximum size and strength that can be installed in the vehicle without requiring major modifications. It generally requires re-drilling holes in some of the stock body mount washers (see installation instructions). This option is only available on the early Toyota pickups and 4Runners. These hardware kits cost $25-35 depending on application. Bottom Line: If you lack the ability and/or tools to drill holes (7/16" or 12mm) dia. in steel washers, then go with the standard size hardware, or see below for another hardware option...
      Standard Size, Heavy Duty Grade Hardware:
      Another option for upgraded hardware on the later model vehicles is using standard size, heavy duty grade (Grade 8) hardware. This option adds approx. $15 to the cost of the hardware kit and includes Grade 8 bolts for all the cab/body mounts. You can specify the type of hardware you desire at the time of ordering. With the standard size Grade 8 hardware, no modification to the stock body mount hardware is required. This option, listed as kit HD, can be specified on almost all the body lift kits. This option is generally recommended on lifts of 2" and higher,
      Standard Size, Stainless Steel Hardware:
      Available for certain applications is a new stainless steel hardware kit. This option adds approx. $35-40 to the cost of hardware kit
      So which does 4Crawler Offroad recommend?
      If ease of installation is important, get the standard size hardware
      If low cost is important, get the standard grade hardware
      If maximum strength and ruggedness is important, get the heavy duty hardware
      If corrosion ressitance is important, get the stainless steel hardware

      And of course, you can also supply your own hardware, if you want all metric or something even harger, it is your choice. Just let us know what diameter bolts you plan on using so the blocks can be pre-drilled to fit.

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      What about manual transmissions?

      Manual transmissions have shift levers that are attached to the transmission (or transfer case) and extend up into the passenger compartment for access. Since the transmission or transfer case is attached to the frame, when the body is lifted, the shift lever "sinks" into the floor of the vehicle. With a 1" lift, this would probably not even be noticed. On a 2" - 3" lift, it probably is noticeable. Several options exist to correct this problem. One option is to cut the shift lever off near the base and have a sections of 1/2" dia. steel rod welded in to lengthen the shifter.

      Another option is an extension that can be added to the top of the shift lever. As such, the extension will have an M12-1.25mm internal thread to match the end of the shifter and an M12-1.25mm external thread to accept the shifter ball to be re-installed on top:

      3" Extension (top)
      2" Extension (bottom)      		 Shifter Extension Installed

       

      Order a 2" Shift Lever Extension: $20.00 Order a 3" Shift Lever Extension: $25.00

       

      One extension will be needed for each shift lever that you want to lengthen. The extension length is measured along the smooth section, with an extra inch being threaded to accept the shifter knob. Shipping is via Priority Mail within the US and Global Priority Mail outside the US.

      One issue that shift levers can cause with body lifts is that as the shifter "sinks" into the floor, the distance from the lever's pivot point to the floor penetration is increased. This means that the shift lever sweeps out a wider arc in the various gear selection positions. Enlarging the hole in the floor is one option or bending the base of the shift lever is another option. A simple extension, while it makes the shift lever longer, will not help alleviate the clearance issues at the shifter boot. A better option to both extend the shifter and to shorten its throw is a short shift kit. Here is a short throw kit that bolts onto the Toyota transfer case shifters.

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      What about automatic transmissions?

      Most Toyota 4WD body lift kits would not work on vehicles with automatic transmissions. The A/T shift linkage on most Toyota 4WD pickups and 4Runner (up through 1995) consists of two main parts, the transmission shift lever and the transfer case shift lever. The transmission lever is adjustable and can handle up to a 3" body lift with simple adjustments. There are two types of 4WD, or transfer case, shifters. The most common type is an external linkage, on the other hand will only work up to about a 1" body lift without modifications. Above 1", a bracket is required that lifts the transfer case shift lever up so that body lifts in the 2" to 3" range can now be done on A/T equipped Toyota 4WD vehicles. A less common type of transfer case shifter goes directly into the transfer case, just like a manual transmission setup (see above section) and this bracket setup is not needed. You should examine your transmission/transfer case linkage to verify which type you have before ordering and installing a body lift lit.

      The table below lists some typical vehicle applications for which body lift kits are available and whether that application will require brackets for the automatic transmission linkage. Note that "Y" indicates a bracket kit is required to install the body lift and "N" means that one is not needed:

      A/T Bracket Requirements
      Application 1" Lift 2" Lift 3" Lift
      '79-'88 Toyota Pickup N Y Y
      '84-'89 Toyota 4Runner N Y Y
      '89-'95 Toyota Pickup N Y Y
      '90-'95 Toyota 4Runner N Y Y
      '95-'04 Toyota Tacoma N N N
      ''96-'02 Toyota 4Runner N N N
      '02-'03 Toyota 4Runner N N N
      Toyota FJ-60 Landcruiser N N N
      Mitsubishi Montero N N N

       

      Toyota A/T shifter bracket Bracket Install Location
      2" A/T Shift Lever Bracket Bracket Install Location 3" Bracket Kit, Installed

      The bracket is priced at $45 (for 2") or $55 (for 3") as-is (for use on existing body lifts), a $5 charge is added for world-wide shipping. Consult the installation instructions for more details. The bracket is fabricated from 3/16" thick steel and includes new mounting bolts to attach the lower bracket to it, the existing hardware is then used to attach the bracket to the stock location. The 3" spacer includes a bolt on extension for the upper shift linkage to prevent binding in the 2H position. Before ordering this bracket, see the important notes below:

      Order a 2" A/T bracket: Order a 3" A/T bracket set:

       

      Notes:

      • You should make sure you have a linkage-style transfer case shifter. Some A/T-equipped trucks have transfer case shifters that go directly into the transfer case, just like a manual transmission truck has. If this is the case, then do not order this adapter/bracket, IT WILL NOT WORK FOR YOU. Other options are to extend the transfer case shift lever, or convert it to a short throw setup.
      • For the Tacoma ('95.5 onwards) and 3rd. gen 4Runner ('96-'02) applications, the shift linkage only requires adjustment, no bracket is needed.
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      What about steering?

      Steering shaft rag joint Steering shaft extension Recirc Ball vs. Rack and Pinion Spacer
      A: Steering shaft disassembled B: Steering shaft extended C: Recirc.Ball vs. Rack&Pinion

      Toyota vehicles with rack and pinion steering typically use a nearly vertical steering shaft that runs from the steering column penetration of the firewall to the steering rack mounted on the frame. Since the shaft is vertical, it is directly affected by a body lift. There is some amount of adjustment at the lower clamp, sometimes and inch or more of excess shaft is inside the clamp. However, it is difficult to ascertain the amount of spline remaining inside the clamp without removing the steering shaft. At the base of the steering shaft is the "rag joint", that allows for slight misalignment and also helps to absorb jolts from the road. It is possible to slightly extend the length of the shaft with washers on top of the rag joint. Beyond about 1/2" and the stop bolts on the rag joint will slip past the slots on the steering shaft and this would leave the rag joint unsupported and subject to damage. Therefore, an extension of some is required. In the above images, you can see the rag joint disassembled and the extension that slips over the stop bolts and is then bolted in between the rag joint and steering shaft. Due to the angle of the steering shaft, the spacer can be a bit less than the amount of body lift, for example, for a 3" lift, the spacer is 2.5" tall.

      The table below lists some typical vehicle applications for which body lift kits are available and whether that application will require extensions for the steering shaft. Note that "Y" indicates an extension is required to install the body lift and "N" means that one is not needed:

      Steering Shaft Extension Requirements
      Application 1" Lift 2" Lift 3" Lift
      '79-'88 Toyota Pickup N N N
      '84-'89 Toyota 4Runner N N N
      '89-'95 Toyota Pickup N N Y-1"
      '90-'95 Toyota 4Runner N N Y-1"
      '95-'04 Toyota Tacoma Y/1" Y/2" Y/3"
      '96-'02 Toyota 4Runner Y/1" Y/2" Y/3"
      '03-'04 Toyota 4Runner N n/a n/a
      Toyota FJ-60 Landcruiser N N N
      Mitsubishi Montero N N N

      The 1" lift rack&pinion extension (pictured right in image "C" above) is priced at $30.00 for use with existing body lifts. 2" extensions available for $40.00 on existing body lifts.

      Use the convenient on-line ordering buttons below to order stand-alone steering shaft extensions for use with your existing body lift: (if ordering with a 4Crawler body lift kit, do not order below, contact 4Crawler Offroad for a kit discount). Applicable sales tax and a $5 shipping charge will be added to the order when you check out. Order the steering extension designed for the type of steering:

      Rack and Pinion Extension for '95.5-'04 Tacoma and '96-'02 4Runner applications:

      Order a 1" Lift
      Rack&Pinion
      Steering Extension:
      US$30.00

      Order a 2" Lift
      Rack&Pinion
      Steering Extension:
      US$40.00

      		 Order a 3" Lift
      Rack&Pinion
      Steering Extension:
      US$50.00